As Kino continues its series of Food Experiences with top chefs and food writers, Head Chef Josh Whitehead and team are looking forward to welcoming award-winning food writer, cook and presenter Angela Clutton to the restaurant on Wednesday 31 July. Angela’s first book, The Vinegar Cupboard, won the Jane Grigson Trust Award, was a double winner at the Guild of Food Writers Awards, and was the Debut Cookery Book of the Year at the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards. Her latest book, published earlier this year, is Seasoning: How to cook and celebrate the seasons.
We caught up with Angela ahead of her event to ask why she believes it is so important for us all to embrace the seasons in our cooking.
What prompted you to write your latest book?
The question I kept asking myself throughout the writing of Seasoning was ‘why does seasonality matter in the modern kitchen?’ Trying to find the answers forced me to really stop and think – and think, and think – about our perceptions of seasonality. I suspect I started off with what I thought was a clear idea of what the seasons were, and when. Of what they mean for the produce that is available through the year for us to cook and eat. What I have discovered is that embracing seasonality is about understanding the rhythms of the land and the climate. Even, or especially, as it changes.
Our globalised food system and modern production techniques mean so many of our favourite vegetables and fruits are now around far beyond their traditional seasonality. There is some good in that, for sure. Our world has a lot of people to feed; we have become used to choice; and society feels it has earned the right to have what it wants when it wants it. But there is quite a lot wrong, and damaging, about that approach too.
Can you talk us through the downsides
Producing vast quantities of vegetables and fruits outside their natural season requires significant energy for artificial heating and light. Then yet more energy is needed to store them so they can last as long as possible. And then the chances are that where they have been produced is a long way from where they are going to be sold/eaten, so there’s all the transportation to factor in – time spent in storage and travelling, which is also never to the benefit of flavour and can often result in food being spoiled and wasted.
Beyond even the significant environmental costs, food that’s produced like this misses out the sheer delicious delight that exists in how the seasonality of land and climate have a unique ability to make things taste the best possible versions of themselves. Winter frosts bring out the sugars of sprouts and parsnips; sunshine doesn’t just make summer’s peaches sweet but ensures they come with depth of flavour too....
You make it sound very enticing! How disconnected do you feel we all are from the seasons?
I actually think we’re getting a bit better at knowing all this. There is a growing real-world emphasis on the importance of eating more seasonally, more locally, and moving away from processed or ultra-processed foods. The priorities behind so much of modern cooking – sustainability, simplicity, satisfaction, convenience, cost – share their axis point with the very heart of Seasoning and of shopping, cooking and eating seasonally.
What are you hoping people take away from Seasoning?
I want to urge for a reconnection with seasonality. To get back to the arc of the food year that nature gifts us. I want people to feel the excitement of the first summertime tomatoes and strawberries. I think there’s even a point to the boredom of winter’s roots by the end of their season. I want everyone to value food that fills them with anticipation, surprise, nostalgia, tedium – because that is life. There is joy in not being able to have everything all the time, but in looking forward to something – and then missing it when it is gone.
Without doubt, the best way to eat sustainably, healthily, economically and fabulously is to load up on seasonal produce, then be able to keep on reincarnating those through their season. Those are the ideas at the heart of Seasoning and of our Seasoning dinner at Kino when Josh and his team will be serving a menu of dishes from the book.
To further whet your appetite for the very special Kino event, Angela has supplied us with one of her delicious receipes:
Broccoli Tempura with White Miso Mayonnaise
Purple sprouting broccoli would be my preferred choice of broccoli to use here. But, as I really don’t
want to limit your tempura’ing to spring, the year-round Calabrese is lovely too. The batter is
gorgeously light, its crunch the perfect partner for the rich intensity of the miso mayo.
Tempura’ing is a great way to use up odds and ends of veg right through the seasons. Try doing it
with slices of courgette (zucchini) or spring onion (scallion), spears of asparagus, cavolo nero leaves,
pumpkin slithers....
Serves 4–6 as a sharing plate, starter or side
250g (9oz) purple sprouting broccoli (or Calabrese)
150g (5oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
150g (5oz) cornflour (cornstarch)
1/2 tsp fine salt
1 tbsp sesame seeds (black, white or a mix) (optional)
1 litre (34fl oz) sunflower oil
2 egg yolks
300ml (10fl oz) chilled sparkling spring water
For the miso mayonnaise
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
25ml (1 tbsp plus 2 tsp) Japanese brown rice vinegar
2 tsp white miso paste
300ml (10fl oz) rapeseed oil
salt and black pepper
Make the miso mayo first so it is ready and waiting once you have tempura’d. Put the egg yolks into
a mixing bowl and whisk with the vinegar and miso paste. Season lightly, then very slowly add the
rapeseed oil, whisking after each addition. Whisk until thick and lustrous. Check the seasoning. Set
aside in the fridge if making ahead of time, but be sure to return to room temperature before
serving.
Prepare your broccoli by trimming off any very woody ends and slicing down through the florets into
the stalk to create lengths no more than 1cm (1/2in) wide. Young, thin PSB spears can be used just
as they are.
Sift the flours and salt into a medium bowl. Add the sesame seeds, if using.
Heat the sunflower oil in a deep pan to 185°C/365°F. Only once the oil is hot enough, work quickly to
beat the egg yolks and chilled sparkling water into the flour bowl. Still working fast, use a fork to
one-by-one dip each piece of broccoli into the batter, then transfer to the hot oil. Fry for a couple of
minutes until crisped and only very lightly golden. Take care not to crowd the pan – you will need to
do these in stages. Lift the tempura’d pieces out of the oil with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen
paper to remove any excess grease, and serve straight away with the miso mayo on the side.
(From Seasoning: How to cook and celebrate the seasons by Angela Clutton (£30, Murdoch Books). Photography by Patricia Niven.)
Angela Clutton will be in conversation with dinner at Kino at 6pm on Wednesday 31 July. Tickets are available HERE
Seasoning – How To Cook and Celebrate the Seasons by Angela Clutton (Murdoch Books) is out now. Signed copies will be available on the night.
Header Image: Food writer Angela Clutton. (Orlando Gili)
