An Ocean Of Grass: Genghis Khan Comes To Leeds

At the Royal Armouries, more than 250 objects from Mongolia reveal an empire built through terrible violence - but also through movement, communication, cultural exchange and ideas that still shape our world. Colin Petch walks through the exhibition with Interpretation Manager Matthew Wood
Colin Petch
June 26, 2026

There's a moment towards the end of Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World when the atmosphere changes.

After the saddles and arrowheads, the coins and ceramics, the maps of conquest and reconstructions of vanished cities, we arrive in front of a tall ceremonial standard. Black horsehair hangs beneath a metal trident. It's elegant, austere and quietly menacing.

“This is talking about the soul of Genghis Khan,” says Matthew Wood, Interpretation Manager at the Royal Armouries Museum in Leeds.

“It’s almost a religious relic. If the horsehair was white, it was a banner of peace. The horsehair is black, as you can see here, so it’s a banner of war.”

The object didn't belong to Genghis Khan himself, but it is the kind of standard under which Mongol forces rode. The Great Khans were believed to leave part of their spirit within such banners. When a Mongolian delegation visited the completed exhibition this week, its members came to this case and paid their respects.

That response is critical to the entire exhibition. It reminds us that, while Genghis Khan may appear in the British imagination as a remote figure of medieval terror, in Mongolia he remains a foundational presence: warrior, ruler, nation-builder and ancestor. His memory is not safely sealed in the thirteenth century.

It's one reason why this ambitious exhibition at the Royal Armouries refuses to offer visitors a simple verdict.

The brutality is here. It could hardly be otherwise. Cities were destroyed, populations slaughtered and terror deployed quite deliberately as a weapon of expansion. Yet the exhibition also asks what came after the conquest: the movement of people and ideas, the protection of trading routes, a sophisticated communications network, religious toleration, paper currency, scientific exchange and a form of government capable of connecting an immense portion of Eurasia.

“It’s important for us that we show them in the round,” Matthew tells me. “People can make their own minds up over whether it was good or bad. There is more to it. There was a whole culture and a whole exchange of culture that happened - not just in Asia, but across that wider continent of Europe and Asia.”

What the Mongols achieved, he says, “was brutal, but what happened afterwards is absolutely fascinating.”

The man before the myth

The exhibition begins not with a battlefield, but with a face.

A dignified, almost contemplative figure looks out from a silk portrait: white-clad, bearded and apparently at ease with the weight of history subsequently placed upon him.

“This is as close as we’re going to get to the man,” says Matthew.

No surviving image of Genghis Khan is known to have been made during his lifetime. This likeness was created later, from a description attributed to his grandson Kublai Khan. The version displayed at Leeds expands what had originally been a head-and-shoulders portrait into a fuller image.

“He looks quite sage-like,” Matthew observes. “We really wanted to start the exhibition with that because there are no other images of him from his lifetime that survive.”

There's a linguistic correction to make, too.

Across the exhibition, visitors will encounter the spelling Chinggis Khan, closer to the Mongolian pronunciation, even though the familiar Western form is retained in the exhibition title.

Matthew explains how the name appears to have changed as it travelled westwards through different languages. A soft sound hardened until British and American speakers arrived at the emphatic “Genghis” most of us recognise.

“The Mongolians are trying to remind everyone that Chinggis is the Mongolian way of saying it. That’s his actual name.”

It's a small lesson in transmission, but an appropriate one. The exhibition is, in part, about what happens when people, languages and ideas move enormous distances - and how much might be altered along the way.

Artefacts from Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World at Royal Armouries, Leeds
The Ubiquitous Mongolian Saddle

An ocean of grass

Beside the portrait is a saddle. To understand why it belongs so close to Genghis Khan, we first have to understand the landscape that formed him.

The Mongolian steppe has been described to Matthew as “an ocean of grass”: a seemingly endless expanse that encouraged movement rather than settlement and made the horse central to survival, identity and war.

“I don’t think I can quite comprehend how endless that steppe is,” he says. “The geography and the landscape are so important to how they shaped the Mongol Empire—and then how they went on to shape the world.”

Even today, he says, Mongolian colleagues speak of growing up on horseback. In earlier centuries, children could be secured to a saddle while learning to ride, developing an intimacy with the animal long before equivalent skills might have been acquired by their opponents.

The saddle's therefore not decorative context. It's a piece of enabling technology.

Mongol riders could travel for six to ten hours a day and cover remarkable distances. Across the empire, a chain of relay stations allowed messengers to exchange exhausted horses for fresh ones and continue almost without interruption.

“If you had a messenger who needed to get from China to Russia, he just wouldn’t stop,” says Matthew. “Every time he got to one of these stations, he’d get a new horse and keep going. He could be riding for days and days.”

To armies encountering the Mongols, this created an almost incomprehensible level of coordination. Forces separated by huge distances could share information and converge with devastating precision.

“European armies would be about to face one Mongol army, and then another one would turn up. How did they know to get there on that day, at that point? It was because of that communication.”

The same relay system carried official messages and correspondence. It amounted to an international postal network across territory extending from East Asia deep into Europe.

This is the first of the exhibition’s reversals. The supposedly primitive horde was held together by infrastructure.

The weapon that won an empire

Inevitably, at the Royal Armouries, we come to the weapons.

There are helmets, mail, swords, spearheads, arrowheads and early gunpowder technologies. But one object commands Matthew’s particular affection: the Mongol composite bow.

“I shoot longbows,” he admits. “So, as an Englishman, I want the longbow to win - but this really outpaces it and outranges it.”

Made from a combination of materials including wood, horn and sinew, the compact bow could produce tremendous power. Unstrung in its display case, its shape is deceptive. Under tension, its limbs would curve in the opposite direction, storing the energy required to send arrows farther than many opposing weapons could reach. Combined with a lifetime’s horsemanship, it became transformative.

“You can imagine a horde of Mongol warriors riding at pace and being able to shoot,” Matthew says. “They could shoot that bow accurately, in great quantities and very quickly. It won wars. It won them an empire.”

Mongol riders could also fire while withdrawing. The famous “Parthian shot” allowed an archer to turn in the saddle and shoot backwards at a pursuer. That capability made one of the Mongols’ most successful tactics possible: the feigned retreat.

Again and again, opposing commanders believed they had forced the Mongols from the field. Nobles eager for glory ordered a pursuit, sometimes following the apparently retreating army for hours. Formation and discipline dissolved. Then the Mongol riders turned - or drew their pursuers into the path of another waiting force.

“The same tactic worked in China and in Europe,” says Matthew. “Vanity would take over. They’d think they’d won and chase. They wouldn’t stop and think, ‘Hang on, what’s going on?’”

They frequently discovered the answer too late.

The exhibition doesn't romanticise what followed. Mongol conquest could be remorseless. Communities that surrendered might survive; those that resisted could face annihilation. Terror travelled ahead of the army, reducing the need to fight every city in its path.

“That side of Mongol culture - the brutal conquest, cities being wiped off the face of the earth, millions of people being slaughtered - was part of it,” Matthew says plainly. “It was pretty brutal.”

But military success didn't come from ferocity alone. Genghis Khan created an unusually disciplined army organised into decimal units, mixing men from different tribal allegiances and promoting commanders for their ability rather than their birth.

“He never promoted family and nepotism,” Matthew explains. “If someone had ability, it was: come on in, show what you can do. It was quite meritocratic, which again, for us, feels modern.”

Matthew sees the possible origins of that approach in Genghis Khan’s turbulent childhood.

Born Temujin, the future ruler experienced abandonment, extreme poverty, captivity and betrayal. His family was cast out by its tribe and forced to survive at the margins. He killed a half-brother during a dispute, was later captured and effectively enslaved, then escaped and gradually rebuilt his position.

“He had to think on his feet and live by his wits,” says Matthew. “I think that made him understand that you couldn’t trust somebody just because they were from your tribe.”

Unlike the teenage princes and young nobles who often led medieval armies, Temujin was approaching middle age before his great campaigns began.

“Maybe he was just older and wiser,” Matthew suggests. “He had a cooler head and was able to think about things differently from some of the more arrogant younger men leading armies against him.”

Matthew is careful to identify that as his own interpretation. Yet it helps explain how a man emerging from such precarious circumstances could see beyond a culture of tribal loyalty and build something far more systematic.

Artefacts from Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World at Royal Armouries, Leeds
Treasures on Display

After conquest

As the exhibition moves into the period known as the Pax Mongolica, its material world changes.

Conflict gives way to cities, trade, ceremony and exchange. There are luxury objects, jewellery, ceramics and delicate fragments of costume. Artefacts recovered from Karakorum, the Mongol capital, evoke a cosmopolitan city that attracted artisans, engineers, merchants, diplomats and religious figures from across the known world.

At its heart was a royal palace associated with Genghis Khan’s descendants, the “Golden Family”. One celebrated account describes a silver or metal tree made by a European artisan, designed to dispense different drinks from its branches.

“It’s real decadence,” Matthew says. “They had a lot of conquest and a lot of money.”

Envoys arrived from distant courts. Christians, Muslims, Jews and Buddhists could be invited to debate in the presence of the Khans. The Mongol rulers had their own beliefs, but didn't always seek to impose a single faith upon their subjects.

“They weren’t interested in putting their culture onto others,” says Matthew. “They had an interest in religion, and there was a kind of religious tolerance. They would invite Christians, Muslims, Jews and Buddhists to court to debate each other.”

The empire also absorbed expertise wherever it found it. Chinese engineers taken into Mongol service provided knowledge of siege machinery, allowing an army already formidable in open country to attack fortified cities. Administrators, craftspeople, physicians and scholars crossed borders with unprecedented ease.

“As the Mongols were conquering, they were soaking up parts of cultures that they liked,” says Matthew. “They weren’t simply imposing themselves. It became part of this expansion of the empire.”

This didn't make the empire benevolent. Skilled captives were still captives; the flourishing that followed war can't erase the suffering required to create the conditions for it. The exhibition is strongest where it permits those truths to remain in tension.

The peace of the Mongol-controlled trade routes allowed goods, knowledge and technologies to travel enormous distances. Scientific and medical ideas crossed between cultures. Paper money could operate across territories in which the weight and variety of metal coinage presented an obvious problem.

“For us, paper money feels quite ordinary - or perhaps we’ve already moved beyond paper money,” says Matthew. “But paper money in the thirteenth century isn’t something you naturally equate with that period.”

Nearby are tablets of authority, carried by officials and messengers as proof of their right to move through the empire. Matthew describes them as passports.

One, pierced with a hole, might have been attached to a horse’s tack so it could be displayed immediately at a checkpoint.

“If you’re charging through, you don’t want to be getting it out of your pocket,” he says. “People would see that tablet of authority, and off you went.”

Passports. Paper currency. Postal networks. Meritocratic promotion. Religious toleration. None existed in a form identical to modern institutions, and the exhibition isn't claiming that the Mongols invented the contemporary world wholesale. But the echoes are intentionally unsettling. The empire looks both ancient and unexpectedly recognisable.

Members of the Mongolian Delegation at Royal Armouries
Members of the Mongolian Delegation at Royal Armouries

The women who held power

The male warrior remains the most persistent image of Mongol history, but the exhibition makes room for women whose political importance has often been diminished in Western retellings.

Mongol women managed households and territories while men campaigned. Elite women advised rulers, administered lands and acted as significant political figures in their own right. Among them was Alaqai Beki, a daughter of Genghis Khan who helped govern extensive territory and became an important force in maintaining imperial power.

The exhibition also displays examples of the extraordinary tall headwear worn by women of the ruling elite. Even in fragmentary form, the surviving decoration conveys status, craftsmanship and a court culture far removed from the crude stereotype of a marauding horde.

These objects require us to look again - not only at the empire, but at whose experiences have been allowed to represent it.

Archaeology without walls

Some of the exhibition’s smallest objects have become Matthew’s favourites.

During the long process of planning the show, the team initially encountered many of them as thumbnail photographs on spreadsheets. Their emotional and physical presence only became apparent when the crates arrived and the artefacts were installed.

“You spend so long seeing tiny images,” he says. “Sometimes your eye passes over them. Then they come out of the crate and go into the case, and they’re absolutely fantastic.”

The survival of this material is itself remarkable. The dry conditions of the steppe may have aided preservation, but so too did the relative absence of intensive settlement and agriculture across vast areas. In landscapes where people lived in mobile dwellings and grazed animals rather than repeatedly ploughing or building, archaeological deposits could remain undisturbed.

Yet nomadism creates an opposing difficulty: communities moving with their herds don't always leave behind concentrated layers of material evidence. This makes permanent centres such as Karakorum especially valuable.

“If you’re living in gers, you’re not affecting the landscape in the same way,” Matthew explains. “But the downside is that, if you’re nomadic, you don’t stay somewhere long enough for archaeology to form. Karakorum is such a fruitful site because there were many generations in the same place.”

The exhibition’s objects are therefore not simply beautiful survivals. Together, they provide fragments of a civilisation whose history was often recorded by outsiders, enemies or those it conquered.

A legacy in black and white

We return to the black banner.

No one knows with certainty where Genghis Khan was buried. Stories of the secret funeral have multiplied over the centuries: witnesses killed, the ground disguised, the location protected at any cost. Some accounts are almost certainly later embellishments, but the absence of a known grave has only intensified the power of associated relics.

Objects such as bows and banners became points of spiritual connection. They moved through Mongolian society and helped preserve the presence of the ruler long after the physical empire divided.

“That is why we wanted to end with this,” Matthew says. “It reflects the twilight of the exhibition and the legacy of Genghis Khan - good and bad - and allows us to see more in the round.”

It would be easy for an exhibition concerned with military history to become intoxicated by conquest. The Royal Armouries largely avoids that trap. Its weapons are displayed as technologies with human consequences. Its account of Mongol organisation and tactical brilliance doesn't disguise the massacres that accompanied them. Equally, it refuses to pretend that violence is the whole story.

The Mongol Empire was the largest contiguous land empire the world has known. It reordered political power across Eurasia and accelerated encounters between societies whose technologies, beliefs, artistic traditions and scientific knowledge might otherwise have remained far more distant.

“The thing that drew us to it was the link to our collections of arms and armour,” says Matthew, “but also that conquest and legacy of brutality. What we don’t see in the West is the post-conquest peace, the cultural exchanges and the religious toleration.”

There are no clean hands in the history of empire. Britain, of all places, ought to recognise the danger of commemorating administrative innovation while relegating violence to the footnotes. But there's also little value in replacing inquiry with caricature.

This exhibition doesn't ask visitors to admire Genghis Khan. It asks us to confront the scale of what happened - and to examine the structures, ideas and exchanges that survived the armies.

Artefacts from Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World at Royal Armouries, Leeds
Artefacts from Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World at Royal Armouries, Leeds

Not London. Leeds.

There's one final aspect of the exhibition that ought not to be treated as an administrative detail.

It is here.

In Leeds.

The Royal Armouries has spent a year preparing for the arrival of these objects, working with international partners and Mongolian colleagues to create the exhibition in its new special exhibitions gallery.

Nearly half the objects, Matthew tells me, have not previously been displayed in Britain or elsewhere in Europe.

“It’s amazing to work with the Mongolians,” he says. “And it’s the kind of thing that, growing up, would have been in London. Now it’s in Leeds.”

There was palpable pride among the museum staff during the preview - not simply because an impressive exhibition had been completed, but because an exhibition of this scale and international significance had come directly to a northern city.

That distinction is too important for MagNorth to ignore.

National cultural life can't remain national in name while being metropolitan in practice. The presence of rare Mongolian treasures in Leeds does more than add another attraction to a summer programme. It asserts that audiences in the North shouldn't have to travel to the capital to encounter world history at its most ambitious.

The Royal Armouries is particularly well placed to make that argument. Its Leeds home contains Britain’s national collection of arms and armour, but the stories told through those objects have never belonged to one region or even one country. Weapons cross borders. Empires collide. Technologies migrate. The consequences reach everyone.

At the end of our walk, Matthew reflects upon the year the team has spent immersed in a world that was initially unfamiliar to him.

His own specialist background lies elsewhere, particularly in the British Army and the Second World War. Working on the Mongol exhibition demanded a substantial journey into new territory.

“It was a real joy to have that deep dive,” he says. “My knowledge was very limited when we started. Then, when you look beyond the image we have of Genghis Khan - not ignoring it, but factoring it in and looking beyond it - you think: this is absolutely amazing. All the cultures they met, and no one could stop them.”

The ocean of grass feels a very long way from Leeds Dock.

Yet inside the Royal Armouries, among saddles ridden across the steppe, authority tablets carried along imperial roads and a black banner heavy with spiritual memory, that distance briefly collapses.

History has travelled north.

And this time, London will have to come to Leeds.

Genghis Khan: How the Mongols Changed the World
Royal Armouries Museum, Leeds
26 June–1 November 2026

Adult tickets £9; concessions £7. Admission is free for children aged 15 and under. Entry to the wider Royal Armouries Museum remains free.